Embark on a 3 day motorbike adventure and enjoy some of the best hidden gems in Laos.
The Pakse Loop is one of my favourite highlights from all of Laos. I found it to be unexpectedly beautiful, with some of the most spectacular waterfalls that I have ever seen, the best coffee spots in the country and incredible countryside and mountain views. You will come across tiny villages where you can witness local villagers going about their daily lives and really get a true insight into rural Laos.
Within this post, I am going to be discussing the shorter motorbike loop which I completed in 3 days. There is a longer loop which can be completed over 4 days and some even complete the smaller loop in 2 days. I will be sharing with you my personal itinerary with the best recommendations to make the most out of the experience.
Table of Contents
How to get to Pakse
The Bolaven Plateau is easily accessible from the town of Pakse in the South of Laos.
The cheapest way of reaching Pakse is to take a sleeper bus from Vang Vieng or Vientiane to Pakse.
I travelled by VIP sleeper bus from Vientiane to Pakse which cost 430,000 Kip (£16.36) and took 12 hours. The bus left at 20:00 and arrived at 08:00. I slept well for the journey and woke up upon arrival in Pakse. Be aware that in Laos the sleeper bus beds are usually small doubles so if you are travelling alone, you may be paired with a stranger!
Renting a Motorbike
The best place to rent a bike is Miss Noy in Pakse. The owner gives a free briefing every evening at 18:00 and discusses the route and best things to do. He also provides a detailed map of the Bolaven Plateau.
Of course, you can expect this bike rental to be very busy as everyone seems to know of its good reputation. I recommend putting your name on the waiting list 1 or 2 days before you plan on starting the loop to secure your bike.
Another benefit of renting your bike from Miss Noy is that you pay upon returning the bike so you can keep it for as long as you desire! This is great as you can add on an extra day on the loop if you fancy it. All you need to do is leave your passport as a deposit.
Miss Noy has a range of semi automatic and automatic bikes. It is recommended to drive a semi-automatic to have more control over the smaller roads leading to the waterfalls but stick to what you are comfortable with. We chose to drive an automatic as we have never driven a semi automatic and we had no issues with any of the roads on the loop. An automatic costs 220,000 kip (£8.37) per day and a semi-automatic costs 130,000 kip (£4.95) per day.
Bolaven Plateau Map
Bolaven Plateau Short Loop
The short loop is the most popular way to experience the best of what the Pakse loop has to offer. It focuses on the Southern part of the plateau where you will come across some of the most spectacular waterfalls in Laos, many coffee plantations and beautiful rural villages.
The short Pakse loop is 200km and you will pass through the small villages of Tad Lo, Thateng and Paksong. The main roads are in great condition and are so fun to drive. There are minimal parts of the journey which consist of dirt tracks – these are primarily the roads to the waterfalls and are very short anyway.
We chose to spend 3 days and 2 nights in Tad Lo exploring the short loop and I would recommend this to get the most out of your trip. Many complete the loop in 2 days 1 night but for a more relaxed and enjoyable experience I would recommend increasing by one night.
Bolaven Plateau Large Loop
The big Pakse loop consists of 300km and additionally passes through the villages of Sekong and Houay Kong. You will need at least four days, 3 nights to experience the larger loop.
I have personally heard and read mixed reviews on whether the large loop is worth it. Some swear that it offers more beauty than the short loop while others say that the best highlights are on the short loop. Also, I have heard that the roads are much more dangerous on the longer loop and there is a higher chance of robbery. As I only completed the short loop, I cannot speak on this.
Day 1 Itinerary: Pakse to Tad Lo
Day 1 consists of an easy drive along a lovely well maintained (and straight!) road to the tiny village of Tad Lo. We stop at a coffee plantation in the morning before carrying on with the drive to Tad Lo where you can then enjoy lunch and check in to your guesthouse, before spending the afternoon in nature and bathing in the local waterfalls.
Mr Vieng Coffee Homestay
I advise that you leave Pakse at 09:00 am (to avoid the morning school run) and head straight to Mr Vieng Coffee to enjoy some morning coffee to fuel you for the day.
Be sure to fill up your tank before leaving town and then embark on the 60 km (1 hour 10 minute) journey.
You can simply stop here to enjoy a cup of coffee or two before continuing your journey to Tad Lo or you can take part in the coffee plantation tour.
We decided just to sit down and enjoy a few coffees as we were told that the plantation tour ticket does not include tasting coffee. Those who do visit the plantation rate it highly so if you are interested then I would recommend taking the tour.
Arriving in Tad Lo
Tad Lo is a tiny remote riverside village with few guesthouses, restaurants and a lot of beautiful nature. It is where we spent both of our nights on the Pakse Loop.
You will drive a further 25.5 km (35 minutes) from Mr Vieng Coffee to reach this hidden gem of a town. Plan on arriving around lunchtime to allow yourself time for lunch before spending the afternoon at the waterfalls.
Mama Pap Homestay
The first thing to do when you arrive in Tad Lo is to find your accommodation for the night. Tad Lo is the area where most bike theft occurs on the short loop so it is important to leave your bike at secure accommodation parking whilst exploring the town.
We decided to stay at Mama Pap Homestay as it is the cheapest and most authentic accommodation in the area. Four of us were travelling the Pakse Loop together so we decided to opt for the private room on the ground floor which had one large double bed and one small bed. You pay 50,000 kip (£1.89) per bed – not per person – so this room worked out as under £1 each a night!
The upstairs consists of a dorm with many double beds with mosquito nets – again 50,000 kip per bed.
Whilst this was definitely not the most comfortable stay, it was the perfect base for our two night stay and the price was unmatched. Be aware that there were a lot of mosquitoes in our room but a net is provided so we managed to avoid any bites. The room also gets extremely hot and only has one fan for four people so we did struggle to cool down at night, but for £1 per person what can you expect! Mama Pap herself is lovely and offers delicous food – and big portions. Bare in mind that you will be staying with a family with young children and a baby. The shared bathroom has two toilets and a shower – with warm water!
Lunch at Mama Leuah Restaurant
After a morning of driving, enjoy lunch at Mama Leuah’s Restaurant. It isn’t the cheapest food found in Laos but it was delicious and fairly priced. I enjoyed a chicken curry for 55,000 kip (£2.08) and we got to try her homegrown bananas after for free!
Swimming at Tad Lo Waterfall
It is now time to cool down at one of Tad Lo’s beautiful swimming spots.
There are three waterfalls in Tad Lo, one right next to the village (the best for swimming), another 1 km upstream and then one more a further 8 km away.
Just a 5 minute walk away from our guesthouse we were able to enjoy a cool off from the blazing hot sun here at Tad Hang Waterfall. The water was very refreshing and it was so peaceful being surrounded by nature without any other tourists in sight – a true hidden gem in Laos.
Continue 1 km upstream and you will arrive at Tad Lo Waterfall. There is a suspension bridge where you can pay a small fee to enjoy a perfect view of the waterfall but unfortunately it was closed when we arrived here at sunset.
Elephants
We were devastated to find an elephant chained to a small sand bar at the top of the waterfall. The poor thing couldn’t even manage to reach the water from the bank – I actually cried at the sight of it.
Upon further research, the elephant is placed there until a tourist pays to watch it ‘bathe’ and then be chained back up. Please make sure that you do not support this and do not pay to watch the elephant bathe – this is not natural and the elephants are treated very poorly and neglected.
Dinner in Tad Lo
It is now time to head back to town and enjoy some dinner at one of the few restaurants in town. We walked a few minutes up the road to find a small local restaurant selling food for 15,000 kip (cheapest we had found so far) but when we went to pay this was increased slightly. Still, this was much cheaper than the other restaurants in town so have a browse if you are on a budget.
Recommended spots for dinner are: Mama Pap Homestay (approx 60,000 kip), Mama Leuah Restaurant (shared platter dinner 100,000 kip) and I Love You Restaurant (approx 50,000 kip). Unfortunately I could not get a name for the cheaper food that we found but if you walk a few minutes up the street you shall find a small local restaurant with dishes for approx 30,000 kip.
Day 2 Itinerary: Ethnic Village and Mountain Loop
On Day 2 of the Pakse Loop we are going to visit an ethnic Katu village where ancient traditions are still in place (including the sacrifice of animals and worshipping of spirit). We then embark on a 1 hour drive around the mountain loop which offers scenic mountain views and a viewpoint to stop off at. After a long day in the sun, we are going to head back to Tad Lo Village and enjoy another dip in the waterfall.
Captain Hook Ethnic Village Tour
The first stop on today’s itinerary is Captain Hook’s Ethnic Village.
The village is home to the Katu people who are animists – one of the oldest belief systems in the world. They believe that a spirit is inside all things (plants, animals, rivers, mountains and humans).
The Katu people do not speak Laos but have a language of their own, isolating them from the community outside of the village. Many of the villagers (especially the older generation) do not ever leave the village and as they did not receive education, Captain Hook explained how some of them still believe that the earth is flat.
Captain Hook runs the village tours at 09:30 am and 13:30 pm every day for 50,000 kip (£1.90). The tour takes between 2 and 3 hours depending on how many questions are asked.
Captain Hook will take you on a tour around the village discussing local herbs, the Katu way of life, belief systems, traditions, animal sacrifices and the habits of local people. It is a very unique way of living and I really recommend visiting to get an understanding of this ethnic community.
I will now share some interesting facts and experiences from our morning tour at the Katu Ethnic Village.
Hundreds of inhabitants live in the village without infrastructure.
Polygamy is a normal way of life and most men have multiple wives.
Children usually marry in their teens.
Captain Hook informed us of the ritual during childbirth. The mother usually gives birth outside in the forest area and then a ceremony will be held to welcome the mother and baby back into the home. She will be asked whether the baby is ‘good baby’ or ‘bad baby’ – if answered ‘bad’ then the baby is disposed of. Luckily, Captain Hook said that the mother always answers ‘good baby’. The baby is then welcomed into the home.
A joint made from leaves was passed around the group to try smoking – a local tradition which is believed to prevent mosquito bites.
A bong of tobacco and sugar cane was then passed around our group (also a local tradition from a very young age) but we all struggled to get anything out of it!
Captain Hook provides an insight into many local herbs which are all used as natural remedies. All illness is treated by a local shaman from the village, if the remedies do not work, the person will eventually die as they do not use medicine or hospital. We were able to try many of the different herbs.
There is also a coffee plantation in the village which is the main source of income.
I could discuss many more things but I will leave that for you to discover when visiting yourself during the Pakse Loop!
It is important not to point at people or knock at doors during your visit as this is seen as very bad luck. Do not take pictures without first asking.
Lunch in Thateng
Our tour of the ethnic village concluded at around 13:00 so it was time to grab a cheap lunch in the local town of Thateng.
You will be able to find a basic cheap lunch here at one of the local restaurants. We actually were ignored by a few places serving food but eventually came across a cute little cafe where we refuelled before continuing our adventure.
Mountain Loop
The Phou Tayoun Mountain Loop takes around 1 hour to complete. It was my first time driving around these bendy roads but it was a very fun experience with lots of beautiful countryside views.
Despite the many harsh bends, the road is easy to drive and is in great condition.
Be sure to stop off at one of the viewpoints to take in the scenery before driving back to Tad Lo for another refreshing dip in the waterfall, sunset and an early night at your chosen accommodation.
Relaxing in Tad Lo
We headed back to Tad Lo for a refreshing dip after a long day in the sun.
During our time at the waterfall, we barely saw any tourists, just local children enjoying their time in the water and monks walking to the temple. It really is the perfect place to take in the nature without any distraction.
Lao people bathe in their clothing so be prepared for a few stares from the locals if you are in a bikini. At one point a few people were taking pictures of us!
After drying off, we headed out for an early dinner in Tad Lo. On our first night, we ate around 20:00 and had multiple people come up to us asking why we were out so late. Also, the guesthouse had shut the shutters so we decided that tonight we would have an early night as we were just a little confused at why everyone seemed to find it so odd that we were out at 20:00!
Day 3 Itinerary: Chasing Waterfalls
Day 3 of the Pakse Loop is going to begin with a drive to one of Pakse’s best coffee shops before visiting some of the best waterfalls in Lao. There is even the chance to zipline across the tallest waterfall in Lao!
Enjoy breakfast for just 30,000 Kip (£1.14) at I Love You Restaurant and choose from pita bread/pancakes with 2 fried eggs or 2 chocolate or 3 black hummus. The portion size is great and fuels you for the journey ahead.
Jhai Coffee
Day 3 begins with a 69 km drive to Jhai Coffee. Again, the roads are really smooth and straight all the way so another easy journey it is.
Jhai Coffee is not as well known on the loop as Mr Vieng’s Coffee on Day 1 but I rated it much more highly and the coffee tasted amazing.
The staff are really friendly and let you smell each coffee bean before choosing which one you would like.
I paid 40,000 Kip (£1.52) for the jug of coffee above which was enough for 3 cups!
Tad Fane Waterfall
After an energising cup of coffee, drive just a further 8.5 km and you will reach Tad Fane Waterfall – one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Laos.
The waterfall is located within the Dong Hua Sao Jungle which is a protected conservation area. It is one of the most touristy spots on the Pakse Loop as many day trips depart from Pakse.
A ticket to visit Tad Fane costs 20,000 Kip (£0.76) as well as a charge of 5,000 Kip (£0.19) for motorbike parking.
If you are a thrill seeker, like myself, one of the most exciting things to do on the Pakse Loop is to zipline across Tad Fane at over 100 metres!
The zip line costs 700,000 Kip (£26.62) and includes the main line across Tad Fane as well as 3 other lines offering beautiful views across the jungle scenery. It was one of the highlights of the Pakse Loop so I would definitely recommend going over budget for this.
If you just want to visit Tad Fane, there is a restaurant, a view point (where you can see people ziplining) and the opportunity to take part in a half day trek through the jungle. Unless you take part in the trek, you cannot swim at Tad Fane.
After spending some time admiring Tad Fane, you can grab a cheap lunch at one of the small restaurants. I tried the beef noodle soup for just 35,000 Kip (£1.33).
Tad Champee
Tad Champee is off the beaten track and less known to tourists. I would personally call it one of my favourite waterfalls in Laos – it just has such a magical vibe to it.
You can reach Tad Champee easily from Tad Fane, it is literally on the other side of the road up a dirt track. In terms of driving, I would probably say that this is the hardest track on the Pakse Loop.
However, the dirt track doesn’t last too long and you can then cool off with a dip in the waterfall. The water here was very cool and refreshing. There are even a few tubes here to relax in.
The waterfall is a short walk from the parking lot and tickets cost just 10,000 Kip (£0.38) and 5,000 Kip (£0.19) for parking.
One of my favourite things about Tad Champee is that you can swim to reach behind the waterfall to get the most magical view. Just be careful as the rocks are very slippery.
It is now time to head back to Pakse which will take approximately 1 hour (just under 45 km).
Bolaven Plateau Tips
- Reserve your bike from Miss Noy 1 day before starting the Pakse Loop. During peak season, the bikes get booked up pretty quickly so it is best to reserve one beforehand.
- The best time to complete the Pakse Loop is during the dry season which runs from November – March.
- Put aside 2-3 days for the smaller loop and at least 4 days for the larger loop.
- Fill your tank before leaving Pakse. There are few gas stations on the loop so be sure to keep an eye on how much fuel you have left.
- Pack sun cream, mosquito spray and your swimsuit.
- It is not uncommon for bikes to be stolen on the Pakse Loop. It is essential that you always pay for parking your bike somewhere secure and lock your wheel when leaving the bike unattended (the bike rental should provide a lock).
- In some areas of the loop, the temperature can suddenly fall so it is advisable to bring a long top or sweatshirt. I did not bring one personally and it was fine but it definitely depends on the day.
- Make sure you have valid travel insurance before getting on a moped.
- Always carry your international driving permit in case you are stopped by the police. We did not see any police other than in Pakse Town but it is better to be safe than sorry and to avoid any fines.
- Do not book accommodation beforehand. You will get cheaper rates upon arrival.
- Enjoy!
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Thorough and helpful review with lots of great tips.