Legazpi City and Donsol are two relatively unknown destinations in the Philippines and are both true hidden gems. Here, you shall discover the whale shark capital as well as a huge cone shaped volcano known as Mount Mayon.
Easily accessible from Manila, Legazpi City is a great destination for adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts. The highlight being Mount Mayon, an active volcano with a perfectly shaped cone.
Donsol, located a short bus journey from Legazpi, is home to migrating whale sharks and is one of the best places to naturally see these amazing creatures in the wild, in Asia. If you are looking for a unique and special destination in the Philippines, these are great places to add to your itinerary.
Both of these destinations are still very much hidden gems and it is even a challenge to bump into other western tourists! If you are looking for an authentic destination with friendly locals, you will love your trip to Legazpi/Donsol.
Within this guide I am going to be sharing my backpacking travel tips, including: the best places to stay, best times to visit, budget travel recommendations and unique experiences which create forever memories.
CONTENTS
I have split this post into two parts, 1. Legazpi City and 2. Donsol for ease of reading but I recommend visiting both destinations for the best experience.
– How to Get Around in Legazpi
The Best Things to Do in Legazpi
Legazpi City Travel Guide
Best Time to Visit Legazpi
It is important to plan your visit to Legazpi appropriately as the activities are outdoor based and it has a tropical climate.
For the best weather, it is recommended to visit between March and May, however, this is the hottest period of the year.
You can expect dry weather in general from December – May. Avoid travelling between July and November as this is the rainy season and outdoor activities may be less enjoyable.
Holy Week occurs in March or April and is one of the most celebrated holidays in the Philippines. You may wish to travel during this time to experience local festivities and culture or you may wish to avoid it if you prefer a more relaxed and quiet environment.
How to Get to Legazpi
The easiest way to reach Legazpi is from Manila.
Plane
This will be your best option for travelling to Legazpi as it is quick and not overly expensive.
I recommend booking with Cebu Pacific for the best rates, expect to pay just under 3000 Pesos including luggage. Remember that luggage is not included on Cebu Pacific so be sure to add it to your booking.
Backpacker Tip: Remember to book your Philippine flights as early as possible as they go up in price the later you book.
I really recommend booking a flight to Legazpi if only for the spectacular views you will witness when arriving into Legazpi of Mount Mayon and the beautiful surroundings. I could not believe my eyes as I stared out of the plane window during landing!
Bus
If you really want to save money then you can travel by bus from Manila for approximately 1150 pesos. For me this was not worth the extra travel time of 11 hours due to my limited amount of time in the Philippines (there is so much to see!)
Getting to and from Bicol International Airport to the Town Centre
Upon arriving at Bicol International Airport you will encounter many taxi drivers/shuttle bus drivers offering overpriced rides to your accommodation in the city centre.
We were first offered a price of 800 pesos for two people!
Unless you are a large group and can split the price of a taxi or minivan, I recommend that you take a tricycle which should cost you 300 pesos between two people.
Where to Stay in Legazpi
The two most popular areas to stay in Legazpi are Downtown Legazpi and Daraga.
I recommend staying in Downtown Legazpi if you want to be close to many restaurants and shopping centres. If you would prefer to be situated near to the popular tourist attractions, such as Daraga Church, then Daraga is another great option.
Your Brothers House Tribal Village
I really recommend staying at Your Brothers House in Legazpi. It has beautiful views of Mount Mayon and has a really peaceful vibe to it with a small stream running through the middle, a campfire, lots of plants and even a swimming pool!
The standard double room is a private bungalow with air conditioning for only 868 pesos a night (£12). Note that you will have to use the communal bathroom but this is very clean and actually quite nice.
The only downfall to staying here is that it is located 5 km from the city centre, with quite literally nothing much around other than the onsite restaurant (which is very expensive). This is not an issue as you can easily travel by tricycle to and from the town centre for around 80 pesos!
Book your stay here.
How to Get Around Legazpi
Getting around Legazpi is cheap and easy. This is the first place that I would recommend public transport over hiring a motorbike unless you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing in a short period of time.
The most convenient (and very cheap) way of getting around is by tricycle. Be sure to negotiate the price before getting in as the drivers love to try to get more from the tourists. A ride within the centre of town should cost around 20 pesos, a ride just outside of town should cost around 70 pesos and around 100 pesos to Daraga.
The cheapest way of getting around is by jeepney, with rides starting from just 10 pesos! I actually used these a lot during my stay, especially to and from Daraga. They can be a little intimidating at first as you need to find out where they stop but the routes are usually written on the side of the Jeepney and you can ask the drivers to be sure.
If you plan on driving to many sites in one day, a motorbike will be more convenient but only if you are a confident driver as downtown can get quite busy!
How Long to Stay in Legazpi
I recommend spending at least 2 full days in Legazpi City. This will give you enough time to explore the local streets, take part in activities and discover local landmarks and viewpoints.
The Best Things to Do in Legazpi
ATV Tour of Mount Mayon
The most thrilling activity in Legazpi obviously involves Mount Mayon, which is the most active volcano in the Philippines! The ATV tours will get your heart pumping and offer close-up spectacular views of the volcano.
You can choose from multiple trails ranging in difficulty and length. I highly recommend choosing the black lava trail. You can book here with Your Brother ATV Tour (you will receive a generous discount if you book in person when staying at Your Brothers Tribal Village). I paid 1648 Pesos (£23.00) for the Black Lava Trail which took around 2 hours to complete.
Be prepared to get dirty as you will be driving through streams, mud tracks and, depending on your chosen trail, a small hike. I also recommend bringing ear plugs as the ATV’s are really loud!
This activity cannot be missed during your trip to Legazpi, it is one of my highlights from my South East Asia Travels in 2024 so far!
Daraga Church
Approximately 90% of the population in the Philippines are Christian, so you can imagine how many churches you will find, especially in a city like Legazpi.
You should prioritise a visit to Daraga Church which has experienced multiple historic events such as World War II and the 1814 volcanic eruption of Mount Mayon which left thousands of people dead.
Cagsawa Ruins
One of the most iconic spots in Legazpi is the Cagsawa Ruins. The church was built in 1587 but then destroyed by pirates in 1636. After being rebuilt in 1724 by a priest, it was unfortunately destroyed a second time in 1814 by the huge volcanic eruption of Mount Mayon.
The beautiful ruins that you can find here today are in a perfect location to view Mount Mayon on a clear day.
Entrance Fee: 75 Pesos
Hike the Black Lava Trail
The Black Lava Trail is most commonly visited by those on an ATV tour of Mount Mayon, however, it can also be reached easily from the main road.
The trail was formed by the 2006 volcanic eruption of Mount Mayon which left behind a gigantic trail of black lava.
Although you can reach the Black Lava Trail by ATV, you will explore the trail by foot with a tour guide.
If you are looking to visit Mount Mayon without an ATV, you can reach the trail by motorbike, car, tricycle or taxi. The location can be found on Google Maps as: Mayon Black Lava Zipline Adventure.
There is also a small zipline here which takes you directly to the black lava but this is unnecessary as the walk is very short.
Environmental Fee (and guide): 50 Pesos
Once you reach the trail, you will come across the helipad at the base of Mount Mayon. Here, you will have spectacular views of the majestic Mount Mayon as well as the city and surrounding coastline.
It is important to note that Mount Mayon is typically covered by clouds throughout the day, often clearing in the late afternoon so it can sometimes be tricky to get a perfect view. We arrived without being able to see it at all but waited 20 minutes and were met with a perfect view once the clouds had passed. Try to visit on a clear sunny day for the best chances of a good view.
Visit Ligñon Hill Nature Park for a 360 Degree View of Mount Mayon
Ligñon Hill offers one of the best views of Mount Mayon and the surroundings of Legazpi.
It is a steep hill which takes around 20 minutes to walk up the pavement to the top. Here, you will find a cafe, zipline, observation deck, mini golf and a hanging bridge.
Restaurant Recommendations - Cheap Eats
It can be frustratingly difficult to find healthy and cheap food in the Philippines.
We managed to find one cafe with amazing prices and a great variety including many Thai dishes. They also offer budget meals such as Katsu Curry.
Backpacker Recommendation: Aroy Mack Asian Cafe, Legazpi
Visit SM City Legazpi Mall if you are wanting a variety of restaurants to choose from as it is really quite hard to find restaurants in Legazpi.
Donsol Travel Guide
Best Time to Visit Donsol
Travelling to Donsol is all about swimming with the largest fish in the world: the whale shark (otherwise known as Butanding in the Philippines). Therefore, it is important to research the best time to visit to maximise your chances of swimming with these beautiful creatures.
The whale sharks populate the waters of Donsol between November and June. The best time to visit is between February and April where sightings are at a peak.
I visited in April and had approximately 10 sightings of whale sharks within just 2 days!
How to Get to Donsol
You will start your journey to Donsol from Legazpi City.
The fastest way to travel is by minivan from Legazpi Grand Terminal, which takes 1.5 hours, but it is not the cheapest option.
I am going to provide you with the local, cheap and backpacker friendly way to travel to Donsol!
How to Travel from Legazpi to Donsol by Jeepney
Step 1: Travel to SM City Legazpi Mall where you will find a jeepney stop infront of the entrance.
Step 2: Take the jeepney to Daraga Jeepney Terminal. This should cost 15 Pesos per person.
Step 3: Take the jeepney to Donsol. This should cost between 90 and 100 Pesos per person for a 2 hour journey.
I recommend travelling this way as it will save money and you will meet many friendly locals. Just be sure to check your journey with the driver.
Where to Stay in Donsol
The best place to stay in Donsol is on the beachfront, close to the Whale Shark Centre. It is best to stay somewhere with on site facilities and dining as Donsol is a quiet and spaced out place.
Amor Farm Beach Resort
The best place to stay in Donsol on a budget is Amor Farm. Here, you will be on the beach and a short ten minute walk from the Whale Shark Centre. Not to mention, you will experience the most beautiful sunsets every night!
The onsite restaurant, KawnKita is amazing and exceptionally great value for money. You will find delicious seafood here with dishes starting from just 80 Pesos (£1.10).
I wasn’t expecting much from the beach here but I found it really serene with minimal tourists. The black sand was also really unique. The only downfall is that it isn’t really a great swimming spot.
A basic fan room costs under £12.00 a night, just £6.00 split between two people!
Book Here: Amor Farm Beach Resort
How to Get Around in Donsol
Donsol is a very small town and if you book accommodation with facilities you will most likely be fine without motorbike/car rental.
The best way to travel around Donsol is by tricycle. A tricycle from the Whale Shark Centre to the Bus Terminal should cost only 45 Pesos. You should always try and haggle the price of tricycles as they usually always state a higher price at first.
How Long to Stay in Donsol
You should only need to spend 2 nights in Donsol as there is limited sightseeing here besides the whale shark tour.
I recommend allocating two mornings to swimming with the whale sharks just in case you don’t see them on the first day so you get a second chance. However, if you are coming during peak season only for the whale sharks then 1 night may be enough if you are on tight schedule.
The Whale Shark Capital of the World (Is it Worth it?)
Donsol really is a hidden gem in the Philippines. With most people opting to swim with the whale sharks in Oslob, Cebu in the Philippines, Donsol still remains untouched and free from mass tourism.
Why Not Oslob?
Before I share my experience, I want to highlight why you should prioritise a trip to Donsol if your dream is to swim with whale sharks, and why you need to avoid doing this in Oslob.
In Donsol, the whale sharks naturally visit and stay for around 6 months due to the nutrient rich waters providing great food sources from the Donsol River that feeds into Donsol Bay.
There is an ecotourism program set up in Donsol which provides an ethical opportunity to swim with these gentle giants. The whale sharks are respected, protected and valued here in Donsol, not only used as a money making scheme like in Oslob.
The issue with Oslob is that local fishermen feed the whale sharks which is extremely unethical and leads to the whale sharks congregating in the area all year round. This stops the whale sharks from naturally migrating and therefore creates a lack of breeding, putting the whale sharks in a vulnerable position of endangerment.
It is important to always research before participating in any activity involving wildlife so please make a responsible and ethical decision.
Whale Shark Tour Information
All tours in Donsol are run by Donsol Whaleshark Tour Information Centre.
Whatsapp Contact: +63 968 624 6202
As boat numbers are limited per day, it is advisable to book in advance especially if visiting during peak season.
The fee to join a tour of 5-6 people maximum per boat is 1,850 Pesos (£25.50) per person. This is inclusive of the registration fee, a guide, spotter, snorkelling equipment and the boat.
The tour lasts 3 hours and usually starts at 08:00 am.
You will listen to a safety briefing before boarding and enjoying your swim with the whale sharks.
My Personal Experience
I cannot put into words how amazing my experience was here in Donsol. It has been at the top of my bucketlist to swim with whale sharks since the age of 13 and to finally live out that dream felt surreal. I could not be more happy that I chose to do this for the first time in Donsol in such an ethical and peaceful environment.
I didn’t want to get my expectations up before visiting as I had been warned that there is no guarantee whether you will see the whale sharks. So on the first morning I boarded the boat, excited but still a little nervous that we wouldn’t find one, despite visiting in the peak month of April. To my surprise, 5 minutes in, our guide told us to get in, he had spotted one already! This continued for the next 3 hours, jumping in at every opportunity and swimming alongside these majestic creatures. They are even larger in person! It was genuinely one of the best experiences of my life.
Over the course of 2 boat trips, I had around 10 encounters with the whale sharks! One of those allowed me to swim alongside the butanding in shallow waters for around 5 minutes.
The whole experience felt really ethical and the whale sharks are clearly respected here in Donsol. I 100% recommend this activity in the Philippines.
Should I Prioritise Legazpi and Donsol on my Philippines Itinerary?
I am a huge fan of both Legazpi and Donsol. Originally I had only included Legazpi in my itinerary as it was necessary to reach Donsol but I am so happy that I spent a few days exploring this beautiful city overlooked by Mount Mayon.
Both destinations are such hidden gems in the Philippines and are yet to be discovered by tourists. This makes now an even better time to explore whilst it is still untouched and authentic.
The whale shark capital of the world, Donsol, certainly lived up to its name and even exceeded my expectations.
If you have any further questions or queries please leave a comment below or contact me via my Contact Me Page.
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Super blog on an amazing experience. Full of helpful and thorough information.
Super blog on an amazing experience. Full of helpful and thorough information.
As a Newbie, I am constantly exploring online for articles that can aid me. Thank you